​​​Carolina's, if your tub, shower or wall tile is hard to clean, dull, stained, or just a color you do not like. AMERICAN TUB REFINISHING has the solution you are looking for, RECYCLE instead of replacing and $ave your money with affordable refinishing. I am not charging to little for a quality refinish, some refinishers over hype their process and charge you considerably more. Look for my Angie's List reviews and compare with other refinishing companies web based reviews. How do I score consistently high reviews, I will tell you what you need to know for you to make an informed decision on whether refinishing is a viable option versus replacement, not what I think you want to hear just to get your business.
     After years of abrasive cleaners and harsh minerals in the water, pores open in the surface that allow dirt to settle in making it almost impossible to keep clean. Refinishing puts a new coating on, filling the pores and making it easy to clean again. So easy, in fact, that abrasive cleaners and pads are not needed and should not be used again. After the pricing section that very few companies will post you will find most if not all the information you will need about the refinishing process and hiring of a qualified refinisher.  **Thank you for visiting and please bookmark and save this website for future reference.

​​​​​​​​​​​​                                               864-326-6950


Payment types:   Check, American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Monday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Tuesday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Wednesday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Thursday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Friday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm
Saturday: Closed
Sunday: Closed



**Please read the frequently asked questions after the pricing section as it helps us both. We cannot possibly go over in detail every issue and different cost of every type of refinishing job during a phone conversation if you are not well informed. I provide upfront prices on the most common types of refinishing to treat everyone equal, no vague low to high to see if you can pay more, no phony percentage off gimmicks to make it seem as if you are getting a better deal. I only use one brand and type of coating for all jobs and it is "Made in the USA". That said you need to read the pricing section carefully so that there is no surprise if your refinish job requires an extra charge. When you call and are unable to give information on your refinishing job I am unable to give you a correct price. I take no joy in informing of a extra cost when I arrive to do your refinish that is why I list the fees up front, any of the other sites do that ? Below the pricing section you will find 99% of what you need and want to know about the refinishing process. Feel free to ask me about the process and information that follows when we talk, thank you. (*** I do not refinish for hotels or motels under any circumstance. I do not refinish bathroom sinks, floors, counter tops or cultured marble.)

Bathtubs of steel or cast iron 27" x 54" and smaller $199

Bathtubs of steel or cast iron larger than 27"x 54" up to 30"x 60" $295
Measure your bathtub:  From wall above tub to furthest outer edged of step over then from

wall to wall above tub at longest length. 

*Cost of refinishing tubs larger than 30"x 60" quoted on per tub basis.
*Add $100 if your steel or cast iron bathtub has had a prior refinishing.
*Add $35 when a shower door frame is present (recommend you remove doors and frame for best results).
*Add $30 for no-slip added into floor of bathtub refinish.
*Add $20 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a tub needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.
*When a cast iron tub has excessive surface pitting there is an additional charge for filler.

Fiberglass tub no jets, steps or wall strips from $395
Measure your bathtub:  Up to 30"(wall to outer edged)  X 60" from 
*Oversize garden/oval/jacuzzi tubs larger than 30" x 60" quoted on a per tub basis.
*When a tub needs patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.
*Add $30 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.

*Will not refinish fiberglass bathtub that has a prior refinish not done by me.

Clawfoot cast iron tub (**inside of tub refinish only) from $350
*Add $100 if your bathtub has had a prior refinishing.
*When a cast iron tub has excessive surface pitting there is an additional charge for filler.
**I do not do the outside of the clawfoot tubs. The outside does not require
a higher cost specialized coating as does the inside. You can use a standard paint
the color of your choosing and apply it with a brush/roller.

Fiberglass  tub with surround: 
Measure your bathtub:  Up to 30"(wall to outer edged)  X 60" from 
*Oversize tub/surround larger than 30" x 60" quoted on a per tub basis.
*Add $100 with ceiling.
*Add $35 when a shower door frame is present (recommend you remove doors and frame for best results).
*Add $30 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a tub/shower needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.

*Will not refinish fiberglass bathtub with a refinish not done by me. 

Fiberglass walk in shower:
Measure your shower:

Up to 30"(wall to outer edged) X 60" from 
*Oversize or handicap quoted per job due to size differences.
*Add $100 with ceiling.
*Add $35 when a shower door frame is present (recommend you remove doors and  frame for best results).
*Add $30 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*When a shower needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.

*Will not refinish fiberglass shower with prior refinish not done by me.

Standard size 27"X 54" cast iron/steel tub and surrounding 4 inch tile of
12 rows high of four inch tile  x 24 rows wide of four inch tile = 288 tiles from 
*Fiberglass tubs larger than 27" x 54" quoted on a per tub basis.
*Add 1ºº for each additional 4 inch tile over 288 tiles that directly surround the bathtub.
*Add $100 if your steel or cast iron bathtub has had a prior refinishing.
*Add $35 when a shower door frame is present (recommend you remove doors and frame for best results).
*Add $30 for heavy soap and/or debris removal.
*Check your grout condition if you have grout loss/wear you need to have it repaired before refinishing.
*When a cast iron tub has excessive surface pitting there is an additional charge for filler.
*When a tub needs a patch(s) there is an additional charge based on material and labor.


     The following is everything, you as a consumer, should know about refinishing and what some in this trade do not want you to know. Bathtub and wall tile refinishing, resurfacing, painting and reglazing are all the same.  Some companies use descriptions and terms to make it seem as if they are applying the original type of factory finish.  They are not, everyone in this trade that travels to your site applies a coating over the factory finish.  The process of an original factory finish can not be done in your bathroom.  On cast iron and steel tubs the factory coating is baked on at 1500 °F and that is not happening in your bathroom.  If you get the feeling they are coming across as if they do a factory type refinish then that should be a red flag.  Class A factory finishes that are visually similar to a baked on finish are difficult if not impossible to duplicate on rough surfaces with deep damage.  No coating will be visually 100% perfect mainly because it is applied in a bathroom and not in a environmentally controlled spray booth, so dust or other small particulates may land on the coating during and after the process(*how you can reduce this is explained later).  If anyone tells you different they are not being honest or they are not qualified to do the work.  When done correctly with quality materials refinishing is an excellent long term cost effective option to replacement.  All that being said there are no complicated super secret miracle methods of refinishing that can not be explained or are not allowed to be explained to you as some companies profess.  Just common sense practices used for any surface preparation and coating application.

  What separates reputable refinishers from the not so reputable are the materials and equipment used to do the job.  The most common reasons for a coating to fail is the surface was not properly prepared, or all to often, just not prepared at all and/or the coating used is not made for water submersion.  You can protect your wallet and property, if you ask the right questions and you know the correct process.

1.  The first question is "What type of coating do you use?"  The answer should be "A urethane coating."  If they are applying anything other than a urethane it will not last.

2.  The second question is "How do you prepare the surface?"  The answer should be "On metal tubs, a mild etch or adhesive promoter is applied, and on fiberglass the surface is wet sanded."  If these steps are not done the coating will fail due to not being able to bond to the smooth nonporous surface.

3.  The third question is "How do you apply the coating?"  The answer should be "With a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray system."  If they say that it is brushed and/or rolled applied, or sprayed from a spray paint can then they are most definitely up to no good.

  Unfortunately some are just out to do sub standard work and take your money, not to provide a quality service.  On this site I have pictures of what equipment a professional refinisher will bring to a job site. You are paying good money for a service, so do not hesitate to send someone away if they arrive without the proper equipment.  

   I carry current invoices showing that I have purchased urethane and etcher, not generic hand written invoices anyone can buy at any office supply store.  Ask the other companies if you can see their original invoices showing they use these products before they start.  You are paying for these products to have the work done correctly, not just for the labor.  Why would they not show you what you are paying for?

  I am not charging to little for a quality refinish, others just charge more for the same process. What allows me to offer a lower price is that I am an independent refinisher with no franchise fees owed to a distant corporation.  Also I just specialize in mobile refinishing bathtubs, showers and wall tile which keeps my operating costs lower than most.   Where some others will refinish anything that does not run away and may do other trades which will increase their operating costs, I do not.  Beware of the inflated warranty to justify their inflated price and the "price matcher" if they offer to match my prices then why not offer them to begin with.  Most likely because they need the higher fees to make a profit because their cost of doing business is higher than mine.  Do you want someone doing a job for you knowing they are taking a loss just to price match who then might not feel they owe you anything if an issue arises ?
**The following is extremely important**

What should I do before you arrive ?
   I want you to have the best finish possible. Make sure you have *lighting*, *power* and *water* as they are all needed to properly refinish your tub. Without any one of these your tub can not be refinished. If the surface to be refinished has heavy soap film, tile grout or any other material that needs to be scraped off an additional $20-30 fee will apply. To help prevent dust and debris from settling on to the finish while it is being applied, I ask that you would remove all the toiletries, nick nacks and floor items from the bathroom and wipe everything down then sweep the dust out of the bathroom. Some bathrooms are dustier than others but with your help a dust free bathroom will go a long way in giving you a beautiful finish. I have no control over dust and debris that are in your bathroom from landing on the coating. Make sure your hot and cold controls and water spout do not leak or have a constant drip. If they are leaking or dripping you should have them fixed before the tub is refinished, so as not to expose your new tub surface to a repair where metal tools and parts are being used. I can work around most dripping spouts, but not the controls when the water is running down the wall into tub.

My bathtub has been refinished before.
  I refinish steel and cast iron bathtubs weekly with prior coatings for an additional $75 fee. I do not refinish fiberglass or tile that has been refinished by another company. It is to labor intensive and cost prohibitive to remove the coating for a proper refinish. Some refinishers will spray over old tile and fiberglass shower coatings I will not, how can they warranty what they do when it is applied over work done by someone else ? They can not.....

How long will it take ?
  The average clean and debris free tub takes approximately 4 hours to complete. If your tub has been refinished once before or has soap build up and other materials, the process may take 5 to 6 hours. A fiberglass tub with three smooth walls may take 5 to 6 hours. A tub with three tiled walls 5 to 6 hours. All times are approximate and could run longer or shorter.

How long will it last ?
  When done professionally, a refinished bathtub can last 5 - 10 years before you may want to have it refinished again. It will depend on the care and type of use it will be exposed to. Wall tile can last longer since tile is not being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same chemicals as a bathtub. When not damaged by being chipped and/or exposed to acid cleaners, caustic drain products or mats with suction cups your new surface will not peel or bubble up.

How long before I can use it ?
   Your refinished tub will take approximately 48 hours to completely cure. Cure time is critical in giving you a durable long lasting finish. Finishing products that claim a 6 to 24 hour cure time may be more convenient, but the end result of having to add a fast cure chemical is a brittle coating that will be more prone to chipping. I use one of the best american made urethanes. The 48 hour cure time of this urethane will give you a beautiful and durable finish.

Do you apply caulking ?
    I do not caulk, I will remove the old caulking on the area to be refinished. Companies offering same day caulking are not doing you a service when it is applied to a wet finish! A refinished bathtub needs at least 24 hours drying time before caulking should be done. Companies who offer to return the next day charge considerably more money than my up front refinishing fee to cover the return trip. My schedule usually does not permit me to return the next day even with an additional charge. If caulking is not your strong point there are companies who will do the job at considerable savings when you factor in that I have done half their job already by removing the old caulk.

How do I take care of my new surface ?
   No longer are you going to feel like you just had a workout after cleaning your tub scrubbing and scrubbing just to get it clean. The dirt, film and soap scum will wipe and rinse off without having to use abrasive cleaners, brushes or scrub pads. Just use a non abrasive cleaner and soft sponge and then wipe the tub clean, No S-O-S Pads, No Mr Eraser, No Comet, No Soft Scrub. I recommend these popular cleaners called Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner and Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner or their generic equals. Never use mats with suction cups, Sultan's Linens brand sells a non suction mat for approximately $25 delivered found on different web the upc # 081481237253.

Is there a warranty ?
  Yes, there is a 5 year NO PRORATE warranty on your new finish. Ask the other guys if their 5-15 year warranty is prorated. With a prorate they will charge you a larger percentage as time goes on of what you paid them for their original work seriously they want you to pay for their failure. I would not insult your intelligence with a worthless gimmicky warranty with which they can easily deny your claim. With the process I use I do not prorate as there are no failures from coating application because I do all the work. The only issues occur when instructions are not followed such as exposure to abrasive cleaning pads, brushes, acid cleaners, caustic cleaners, drain products and mats with suction cups. I do not cover rust, neglect, chipping or scratches due to impact or improper cleaning and use of tub.

Is there a strong smell ?
  An industrial exhaust system is used to vent the fumes out of the house not a small box fan like some use. The fumes will be vented out through a window or door and the odor will be minimal. Keep in mind that the actual spraying process only takes 30 to 60 minutes and once the the spraying process is complete any minor fumes or odor will dissipate out of the house within 20 to 30 minutes.  You will of course still have a coating odor in the bathroom where the work was done. The door will be closed once the work is completed and the odor in the bathroom will dissipate as your new finish dries.

How durable is the finish ?
  I use one of the best urethane products in the country. The new urethanes that are available today are incredible! They look like porcelain and they are very durable with the ability to expand and contract with temperature changes plus having flexibility. With normal use your new finish can last 5 - 10 years at which point you can simply have it refinished again. Much easier than tearing out a tub and a lot less expensive. Refinished tile can last longer as the tile is not typically being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same wear as a bathtub.

Is white the only color available ?
  I offer a mild off white and a darker tinted white called china white. I do not have a bright white. To keep costs down for both of us I do not do custom colors.

Will my bathtub look factory new ?

  That depends on your tub/shower surface condition. If the surface is smooth with just normal wear it can look very near like a factory finish. When a surface especially the walls are
severely pitted and/or scratched just spraying a coating on it can not make it smooth, but it will help. Small scratches, chips and cracks on flat areas are mostly filled by the primer and final coating as part of the process. Unscrupulous refinishers won't tell you that and will charge you. Some large chips, cracks, pitting and scratches can be repaired during the prepping process with a filler for an additional fee, which varies on amount of work needed.

Do you refinish clawfoot bathtubs ?
  Yes I refinish claw foot tubs on site only and I only work on the inner surface used for bathing. I do not do any work on the outer surface as that will take to much time to do on site. The outer surface does not require a special coating as does the inner so it can be done by anyone with just about any type of paint. Make sure the claw feet are secure, if they are loose I will not be able to refinish.

What if my tub has rust spots ?
  During the prepping process rusted areas are cleaned and sanded. Many older tubs and sometimes the newer ones will have rust stains from iron in the water or actual rust where the porcelain has been worn or damaged exposing the metal allowing rust. The refinishing process does not and should not remove the factory finish, so nothing I do will expose new areas of metal, only wear and impacts will do that. Unlike the thick cast iron tubs when it comes to the thin stamped steel tubs and rust, the rust will win eventually. That is why I never use the term rust repair for these type of tubs and I do not warranty against rust. The thin stamped steel tubs rust through from the under side and eventually can fail, so no one can control that. Any one who says they will warranty for rust is just saying what they think you want to hear and/or are stupid, can you trust that person ?

Do you need to remove the drain ?
  ***Bronze, brushed metal and chrome drains made of plastic must be removed in steel and cast iron tubs but not in fiberglass. Metal chrome drains that are new or older in acceptable condition can stay installed in all types of tubs. If you have been thinking about replacing your drain ring, now is the time to do so. You can buy a removal tool at all the do it yourself stores. *Some drains having been in place for many decades may require a plumbers help to remove. If there is rust at drain area it should be left uninstalled so I can clean area then you can install the new drain after coating dries. Installing a drain is not that difficult it is a very simple task. I use water to clean the tub so it has to have a drain pipe in place for the water to be carried away, so if you have drain pipe issues it must be taken care of prior to refinish.

Do shower doors need to be removed ?
  Yes, shower doors will need to be removed prior to my arrival for refinishing. Only the doors will have to be removed and "not" the track on the tub step over or the tracks on the side walls. The tracks will be carefully masked off before spraying. I will say that the final refinish will always look better and last longer if the tracks are removed.To remove or not is your decision I can advise on which you should do for your particular situation.  *If you are not physically capable of removing the doors yourself, I will remove them for you with the written understanding that I am not responsible for any damage to your doors and I will not be able to return and rehang them. I do not remove tracks under any circumstance, please remove them if you no longer want shower doors or are updating the door(s).

What finish do you use?
I only use a quality American made urethane.                            

Epoxies:        First used when tub refinishing became available.                                                                                Now you will only find the fly by night companies using epoxies.                                                                  They will yellow over time and are not meant  to be immersed in water.

Acrylics:         Acrylics were a great improvement over epoxies. The tub refinishing
                   industry started putting out better looking tubs.
                   Many refinishers are still using the Acrylics to save on their cost.

Urethanes:       They are the most durable and they will not yellow over time.  Reputable bathtub refinishers are using the new Urethanes available today. When it comes to your new finish I spare no expense. Urethane is the only type of coating that I use.